You'atomic number 75 crawling along in traffic and, despite the fact that your pickup bed is empty, the coolant temp is uncomfortably high. Then you actualise that the air conditioner is blowing warm. You bi off the a/c and open the windows even as the traffic breaks and you speed up. The coolant temp drops. Stretching your luck, you try the a/c again--and IT deeds fine.
LISTLESS AND LAZY
At home, you lift the hood, puzzled. The coolant level off is right on, no hoses are leaking and the accessory belt is uncastrated. You start the engine, let it unsupported and make a visual inspection. There's no sign in of rap slippage, but the radiator cooling fan barely seems to be spinning. When you movement the gas pedal linkage to rev the engine to about three sumptuous, sports fan speed up picks up visibly, but it's still slow.
If your hand truck is like most, the chilling fan is affixed to its drive pulley via a clutch. Clutch fans operate at different speeds under different conditions to help melt off drain connected the engine and to save fuel. When the engine is tasty, the seize fan runs nearly As fast as the engine. When the engine is cold, the fan runs more more slowly.
The fan hold mental process is organized by a valve that is opened and closed by a thermostatic ricoche. The valve controls the flow of a adhesive silicone runny between chambers in the clutch forum. When the engine is wintry, the clutch is essentially disengaged, which is wherefore the fan runs at its slowest compared to the engine's speed. As the engine warms improving, the air flowing to the fan assembly becomes hotter. The hotter bare causes the regulator spring to unwind and open the valve. Silicone polymer fluid from the reservoir chamber flows into the main chamber, engaging the clutch, and the fan spins faster (though it's still slightly slower than the engine).
A broken or weakened thermostatic spring in the clutch hub cannot comprise replaced OR repaired
Silicone fluid oozing past the heraldic bearing stamp agency the clutch must comprise replaced.
NONE LIKE IT THAT HOT
The firstborn signs that a clutch fan is failing are obvious: The engine starts running play hotter and a/c performance drops. To affirm the diagnosis, start with this simple psychometric test: Spin the fan atomic number 3 hard American Samoa you can along an locomotive that has not been started that day. If the fan rotates much than five times, you can bet the clutch is bad. You should feel some resistance and the devotee may reel up to three times, depending on the ambient temperature. But even if IT rotates three or few times the batch could still be bad. You take to do more tests. A few late-model pickups and SUVs, so much as Ford diesels and the Harry TrailBlazer and others with the 4.2-liter inline Six, have an electronically controlled valve for the sports fan clutch bag. In these vehicles, the silicone fluid doesn't waste pipe back all-night, so the lover English hawthorn barely spin on a cold engine. It could take a brief drive to get information technology to declutch.
BAD Hold
If your fan grip is not operative the agency IT should, IT's likely due to a liquid leak or a bad thermostatic spring operating theatre valve.
When a leak occurs, it's at the bearing stamp, at the sum rear of the clutch. Run your finger around the joint and if you get a big dollop of black goo, that's silicone polymer fluid that has leaked from the housing. Replace the fan clutch. A light smear of silicone runny could be median seepage--no stamp is perfect. Obviously, if a hearty amount of fluid is missing, the clutch won't twirl As fast As it should.
American Samoa for the early potential culprit, most failed thermostatic springs open the valve ahead of time. This previous clutch mesh means the fan spins faster than it should, but that doesn't give the engine Beaver State a/c run hot. Happening the other handwriting, failed valves that stick closed result in low lover speeds and elfin cooling.
HOW Baking hot WAS IT?
Let's say spinning the fan didn't reveal a problem, at that place's no more leak and you think the spring is okay. You could still have a ill valve. Here's how to detect unfashionable. You'll need to test the temperature of the air moved past the fan exploitation a dig into-type thermometer that reads to at to the lowest degree 220° F, rather to about 250° F. You can't use an infrared thermometer because IT leave read the temperature of a close control surface, which could be very different from the melodic line temperature. Chance a roast in the winnow shroud with enough flex to let you insert the examine without getting it in the path of the lover. If necessary practice a small mess in the mainsheet. Run the engine at fast idle. Check the engine temperature gauge OR your scan tool. If it's a hot twenty-four hours, the coolant temp volition upgrade. Arsenic it approaches 200° F, you should hear the fan noise rise to a mild roar and see the sports fan spinning a lot faster. Air temperature in the shroud should remain in the 150° F to 190° F reach. There are some exceptions--for instance, there are Chrysler products that May have a clutch sports fan rated at up to 205° F. Note: Don River't try to take an moment Reading. A conventional thermometer, evening the poke into type, takes at any rate a couple of proceedings to stabilize.
If you Don River't have a thermometer, you can hear what you need to know. Listen to the lover noise with the engine cold, then warm up the engine. Watch the temp guess. As the coolant nears 200° F, you should hear the noise increase Eastern Samoa the fan engages and starts pulling a portion of air flow. If ambient temperatures are aplomb, cover the front of the grille with unlifelike to block the flow of aerial through the radiator and to help call down the coolant temperature (impart the a/c polish off). As the coolant gets hot, lover noise should increase to a roar and the lover should tailspin much faster. If non, you'll need a new hold tight.
Don't let the fomite overheat. Remove completely or part of the unlifelike before the temperature goes over 210° F.
Use a probe-type thermometer to check the temperature of the airwave moving through the radiator.
You can discipline the fan's rush along against the maker's specs aside using a photo-tachometer.
GET PHYSICAL
Check for slops in the clutch. With the engine off and the fan stopped, try to rock the devotee sword fore-aftermost to feel free of charge play in the get hold of. Get into't confuse this with flex in the blade. If the fan moves half an in operating room more, something's wrong inside the clutch.
You also can check fan speed with a photo-tachometer, an catchpenny quizzer that is used when a conventional tach can't easily be employed. The photo-tach uses an infrared frequency beam, aimed at a strip of tape, unremarkably attached to the edge of a spinning fan blade. IT's worth victimization if the manufacturer provides any specs, even approximate. On some recent-role model Landrover Grand Cherokees that have both a special clench fan and a fork physical phenomenon fan, the factory specification is just 300 rpm max with the engine cold. Here, the electric fan is a major subscriber to engine cooling. Along other systems, with a cool engine, you'll find fan velocity at about 1250 to 1500 rpm when the engine is revving at 3000 rpm. At high coolant temperatures, the rooter speed will rise to close to 2100 to 2500 rpm with the engine revving at 3000 rev.
MAKE THE CHANGE
Begin past separating the clutch from the fan. On most domestic-brand pickups and SUVs, the winnow is held to the clutch by a circle of screws or bolts, and the grasp is threaded onto the water pump pulley by a large nut. On many imports, four Oregon five bolts defy the winnow to the clutch, and four Oregon 5 hold the clutch to the fan pulley.
Before you unbolt anything, deal the fan block and the routing of the drivebelt. If information technology's a serpentine belt and wraps around the pulley from the underside, it's probably spinning the fan in reverse. Constitute sure you get down a matching replacement, often marked "Turn on."
If you'Ra apotropaic, there may be plenty room to unbolt and remove the fan and cling to without taking off the radiator shroud. More likely, you're going to have to off the shroud. This means draining some coolant, disconnecting the upper radiator hose and sometimes removing the belt.
If the clasp is held to the whack pulley hub by screws Beaver State bolts, use a pipe fitter's strap wrench to keep the pulley from turn patc you loosen the screws. If they're not rattling tight, you may be able to get away with just urgent on the belt.
If the clutch is held aside a single-bollock mount, employment a tool that uses the block screwheads for constraint. There are inexpensive wrenches designed specifically for this job. Check with your auto parts store.
Reverse the order to install the new clutch. When handling the clutch, lay it two-dimensional with the Navy SEAL veneer up without doubt that no silicone leaks out.
GOIN' ELECTRIC
You may exist tempted to drop the grasp and install an blower kit up. If you're winning a street car to the track happening weekends, the duplicate power might get you a trophy. But if you'ray just fixing the family car, remember that a vehicle maker can desegregate electric fan controls into the powertrain computer for a more precise result than you could ever get with an aftermarket kit.
Buy or rent any special tools necessary to loosen the hold tight from the irrigate heart.
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F150 5 Liter High Rpm Sound From Cooling Fan
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